Please see below, or for the official Warmcell installation guide in a pdf file click here pdf file

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR WARMCEL 100 INSULATION

WARMCEL is non-toxic and non-irritant to eyes and skin. However it does cause a small amount of dust when pouring. Therefore we recommend you wear a dust mask.


Before you start laying WARMCEL:

• Make sure you have a sturdy pair of steps or ladder to get into your loft
• Arrange for adequate lighting in the loft
  
• When in the loft make sure you do not tread between the roof joists, otherwise you could not just damage yourself, but also your ceiling.
  
• Try to get a crawling board into the loft to span the joists.
  
• Make sure the loft is as clear as possible
  
• If you have any pipes going through the ceiling to the room below, fill any gaps around the pipes with stiff card, or mastic sealant.
• Put guards around any fluepipe or recessed light fittings to keep WARMCEL approximately 150mm away from any hot component. Either build a wooden box with an open top round each light or cut a length of 150mm PVC plastic pipe around each light. You could also install fire-rated recessed light covers. We sell the ASTRO Downlight Cover, 150mm dia.x 150mm high for £10 each.
• when laying WARMCEL make sure you do not cover any ventilation grilles/holes at the eaves of the roof. We can supply PVC Eaves Ventilators which can be cut to any size – no fixing required – and which will hold the Warmcel in place. Alternatively cut hardboard to fit between roof timbers at eaves to stop WARMCEL blocking ventilation to roof.
  
• For more information on Downlight Covers or Eaves Ventilators phone 01978 761483 or see our website www.efficient-energy.co.uk email:enquiries@efficient-energy.co.uk
  
• If you have any electrical cables running across the joists try to leave the cables above the WARMCEL. High amperage rated cables (shower and cooker cables) must be kept away from any insulation material.
  
• If you have a cold water tank sitting on the joists, then do not insulate under the tank.
  
• Start laying the insulation in the far corners from the loft hatch, making sure you get to all the difficult corners.
  
• The insulation is loose. Make sure you 'fluff up' the WARMCEL with your hand as much as possible as you take it out of the bag. This enables air to be trapped in the insulation. Any compression of the insulation will reduce the efficiency.
  
• If possible lay the insulation over the joists as this reduces the heat loss further.
  
• Once you have put all the bags of WARMCEL in the loft, fix the polythene loft hatch apron as sketch below.
  


• The apron will stop dust falling into the room below and will stop WARMCEL being disturbed around the hatch in future.
  
• When you have finished the work, cut around loft hatch to get out! Make sure you take a knife with you into the loft.Do not forget to insulate the loft hatch itself.  Fill a polythene bag with WARMCEL and stick or staple it to the hatch.
• If you do not have a draughtproofing seal where the hatch fixes to the ceiling, now is a good time to fix one.  Approximately 2% of energy lost through a loft is via the loft hatch.
• If the insulation gets wet from a leaking roof etc. it should be removed.  This is easy with WARMCEL as you can remove the wet area and even dry out the material to fill the gap.
  
  WARMCEL 100 INSULATION CUSTOMER INFORMATION
  
  WARMCEL 100 insulation is made from 100% recycled paper to care for your environment. Far less energy is used in its manufacture than is needed to make other insulation materials.
  
  WARMCEL 100 complies with the fire resistance standards laid out in BS 476 and will not catch fire even if it is exposed to the direct flame of a blow torch. Flame retardants (magnesium sulphate and boric acid) added to the insulation provide it with protection against fire well beyond the statutory requirements.
  
  How to get maximum benefit from your WARMCEL loft insulation
  
  If possible, avoid storing anything in your loft. If you need to use the loft for storage, try to keep to a minimum. When you put things on top of any insulation material, it compresses the material and reduces its efficiency. If you have a lot to store, make a raised platform near to the hatch so that things can be stacked without damaging the insulation.
  
  If you need to go into your loft, use a crawling board for safety (as recommended by the Energy Efficiency Office). As you come out of the loft you can fluff the material back into place by hand. The same applies to plumbers and electricians, who can move the material aside and then put it back into place by hand.
  
  

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